The grower's task, and it is no easy one, is to set in motion the complicated growth processes of the orchid plant, and, through maintenance of proper balance, insure continuation of that process. Using the energy provided by light, the green leaf chloro­phyll transforms the carbon dioxide from the air and the mineral salts from moisture into sugar and other carbohydrates. These energy carbohydrates are stored until needed either for rebuilding plant tissue or for flowering. The pseudobulbs of some types, the large leathery leaves of others, and the slender grass-like leaves of orchids lacking pseudobulbs are the storage reservoirs. The cycle will continue only if the grower devotes the utmost attention to the special requirements of the orchid. The reward for his devo­tion comes when the brilliant bloom and beauty of the tropics is reproduced in the greenhouse.

No hard and fast rules can be set down for the beginner to follow. It has been said that each grower in his own greenhouse, within limitations established by the plants, is a law unto him­self. The amount of each element in the light-heat-moisture-air formula will vary according to season, experience, and variety. One of the things that make the growing of orchids unique and stimulating is the spirited controversy that arises over every aspect of culture.

One of the many points on which there is no incontroversial procedure is the matter of how much light should be admitted. It must be decided whether to grow the plants 'soft' or 'hard,' to use the parlance of experienced growers. The amateur must make his own choice. To grow 'soft' means to shade the plants from the sun so that the leaves remain a beautiful dark green. There can be no doubt that this method produces the most beautiful plants, but the quality of bloom is a question that cannot be an­swered so definitely. In 'soft' conditions care must be exercised not to shade to the point where flower growth will be hindered.

To grow 'hard' means to allow so much light that the leaves have decided overtones of yellow. This method, while marring the appearance of the plant, is said by its proponents to give increased bloom. Too much light must be avoided, since it will burn the plant and growth will be interrupted. Dry, yellow flower sheaths will at times result from such sunburn, and incipient buds will become steamy and subject to destruction by wet rot. Cut­ting off the very top of such a sheath with a sharp knife will allow air to reach the bud and may save it.

The claim that growing orchids 'hard' increases flower growth appears logical if the conditions under which orchids grow in their natural state are considered: the natural environment is 'hard.' It must be remembered, however, that nature controls sun­light in a way difficult to approximate in the greenhouse. Even in those areas where certain varieties grow in so-called 'full sun/ it will be found that drifting clouds give a protection that is absent under intensely directed light in the greenhouse.

Once the amateur has made the choice between 'soft' and 'hard' methods, the subsequent treatment must be consistent. If much sun is provided, more moisture and air will be required. If the plants are grown with minimum sun they will require less moisture, but an increase in ventilation may be needed to keep the air sweet.

Too great an increase in heat during the winter is a common error of orchid growers. Plants store up energy during the day­light hours and give off or transpire energy at night. Increase in night heat increases transpiration. Shorter periods of daylight lessen the manufacture of energy. If the plant loses more energy at night than it is able to store during the day, obviously it will suffer. Orchids are very susceptible to shock of any kind, and they take considerable time to recover—if they ever do. This danger must be borne in mind regarding sunburn, chilling, or energy deficit.

There is the further difficulty of each species' having its own light requirements. Quick reference to conditions in the native homes of the species that the amateur is likely to acquire will illus­trate the point. Cattleyas, native to Central and South America, are found hanging on trees in the tropical rain forests. The burn­ing sun of midday is usually kept off the plant by foliage directly overhead. The grower, guided by this knowledge, lets Cattleyas be exposed to the sun, but provides shade in summer during the warmest part of the day, for sunburn must be avoided. The in­creased exposure to sun necessitates a corresponding increase in humidity to prevent the pseudobulbs from shriveling.

Laelias, showy natives of Mexico and Central America, are found growing on rocks in the open sun. They are closely related to Cattleyas, but require larger amounts of both light and air. The grower should find a place for them in the sun, right up under the glass. Sudden temperature changes should be avoided.

Among the sun-worshipers are the Vandas, natives of India, the Philippines, and some Pacific islands. They will not thrive without adequate sun, and they must have corresponding amounts of heat and water. Care must be exercised to keep water from remaining in the growing crown. The evergreen Dendrobiums, native to the Indian Islands, and Oncidiums, from Central and South America, are also sun-worshipers. Phalaenopsis, the lovely white 'bride's orchids' from the Philippines and the Eastern Archi­pelago, respond well to sun, but must not be overexposed. A warm, moist atmosphere, with plenty of air, is best for this species. Zygopetalums, found in Brazil, Venezuela, and the Guianas, re­quire moderate exposure to sun.

As a rule orchids from mountainous regions or from the tem­perate zone need protection from direct sun. Cymbidiums, natives of the Himalayas, require controlled sun and cool conditions with abundant air. These spray orchids, with their Joseph's-coat range of colors from pink, yellow, green, and brown to the rare pure white, are difficult to grow under glass because they like their 'heads hot and feet cold'; but with careful observation a proper balance can be worked out. Odontoglossums, aristocrats of South America, are normally found at heights of from 5,000 to 12,000 feet. They require cool, shaded conditions at all times and for this reason they are a little difficult to raise with other species. Mil-tonias are found at heights up to 8000 feet in Brazil, Costa Rica, and Colombia. They require shaded sunlight. Deciduous Dendro-biums, native to India and the Philippines, must be protected from the sun during the growing season.

Cypripediums, usually called lady's slippers, are found in many lands and in a great variety of climates. Consequently they like differing amounts of sun, but all must be protected from burning. Generally the mottled-leaved types require more shade and more heat.

The problem of the amount of heat is closely allied to the matter of light. Most climates in the temperate zone require arti­ficial heat in the orchid house to supplement that provided by the sun. Automatic controls simplify the matter, but they do not take the place of brainwork. The beginner must watch his plants carefully, combining all his knowledge of orchids with solicitous observation and a strong admixture of green thumb. Experiment­ing with orchids is extremely precarious because their life cycle is so long, five to seven years from seed to bloom, and the cause of damage may have been forgotten in the six or eight months be­fore it is evident.
The grower should vary heat conditions to balance other con­ditions of the house and plants. As in most native habitats, the temperature can be some degrees lower in winter than in summer. This is another point on which there is difference of opinion.

Some growers increase the heat a bit during the winter day, re­ducing it again at night to sustain balance.

As was pointed out in Chapter 3, the ideal set-up for growing the widely differing genera would be the three-house system. One house would be for orchids tolerating 45 to 48 degrees F. mini­mum night temperature in the winter—Cymbidiums, some Laelias and Cypripediums, and all Odontoglossums. The second house would be the 'intermediate' or 'Cattleya' house, requiring mod­erate sun and a heat of 58 to 65 degrees F. minimum night tem­perature in winter. Cattleyas, allied genera, and hybrids thrive in a house of this type. The third house would be the 'hothouse,' with a minimum night temperature in winter of 65 to 70 de­grees F. Tiny seedlings, Dendrobiums (although the deciduous type should be removed to a cooler house while resting), Cypri-pedium Maudiae, Phalaenopsis, and Vanda Sanderiana are among the types preferring conditions of this house.

The average amateur, however, will not find it practical, ad­visable, or necessary to have three houses. With some ingenuity one house can be adapted to serve all purposes. The so-called 'Cattleya' house lends itself most readily to this adaptation. Heat­ing pipes or other heating equipment may be omitted from one corner. This cooler corner, together with heavier shading and more ventilation, will approximate cool-house conditions. A pro­tected spot near the source of heat and away from the ventilators will substitute for a 'hothouse.' If additional protection is needed, as is necessary for very young seedlings, a glass partition may be added. For all conditions it should be remembered that the control of heat, aside from the automatic turning on and off of the heating system, hinges directly on the amount of air and mois­ture allowed.
In regard to ventilation we again find varying needs among orchids. 'Cool-house' orchids require increased circulation; Cat­tleyas a moderate amount; and 'hothouse' orchids still less. A gentle circulation of air is specified at all times. Strong draughts are injurious—thus the warning to the grower, when building, to Tceep vents away from prevailing winds. The more crowded a house is, the more ventilation will be needed to prevent the air from becoming stagnant. Air provides the plant with carbon dioxide. Carbon-dioxide starvation can result from conditions pre­venting free circulation of air.

If ventilators are properly placed in the building, warm air will rise and escape at the top of the greenhouse. Cool air will take its place and rise as it becomes warm, thereby creating a gentle circulation. It will be necessary to experiment with the ventilators so that while adequate ventilation is provided there is not so much that moisture is carried off too rapidly. Orchids require a live, buoyant atmosphere and will quickly show the result of air that is too stagnant or dry. Flowers grown in a well-aerated house seldom show blemishing spots.

The manipulation of ventilators depends on atmospheric con­ditions outside as well as inside the house. In damp climates the vents may be kept open even on the coolest days. The entrance of damp air will cut down the use of water. In a hot, dry climate, on the other hand, it may be advisable to keep vents closed to conserve the humidity of the house. At times a difficult choice between humidity and fresh air must be made—again a matter where observation and commonsense rather than hard and fast rules must be obeyed.

With the proper balance of light, heat, and ventilation there remains only moisture to round out the growth formula. The technique of watering orchids includes, besides watering in the pot, spraying and damping. With orchids the old familiar water­ing in the pot is the trickiest and the most dangerous procedure. There are a few general rules to be observed. Watering or spray­ing should be done only with a rising temperature. Daily watering of plants up to three inches in height is recommended; thereafter caution is urged. Tiny seedlings should be kept wet at the roots, but must not be allowed to become soggy. Finally, the beginner is warned once more not to acquire too many plants. There should be only as many plants as can be handled individually once a week—never less often than once every two weeks. This is the only efficacious manner of checking watering needs, to say nothing of the fact that it provides a needed check on scale, fungus, and pests.

In watering, the amateur again finds wide variance in the needs of the many species. When watering Cattleyas, it is well to soak the pot thoroughly and then allow the potting material almost but not entirely to dry out. The pots should not become com­pletely dry since the bulbs may shrivel and plant growth may be retarded for at least a year. Yet, if there is any doubt, it is far better to err on the dry side. Dryness will deter growth, but too much moisture will kill the plant. If water remains in the pot and does not dry out in a week or ten days, it is likely that the roots will have rotted off. The pseudobulbs will shrivel and the leaves droop. Many amateurs mistake this for an indication of dryness, and treat the pot to another drubbing, thus rotting the remaining roots and probably killing the plant. A plant that shows signs of shriveling from lack of roots will often respond to a daily gentle overhead spray. Laelias and other plants with light, heat, and air requirements similar to the Cattleyas need about the same water­ing treatment. Laelias like slightly more water after complete growth and before flowering. After flowering they will require slightly less.

Vandas, since they are without pseudobulbs, must have water at all times, but their lusty aerial roots will take care of some deficiency in watering by taking moisture from the air. Phalae-nopsis, also pseudobulb-less, must not be allowed to dry out en­tirely. Watering of this species must be done with care to prevent water from remaining in the crowns, a condition that is conducive to the growth of fungus.

Oncidiums must not be allowed to shrivel. They need a great deal of water when growth is being completed and flowering is beginning, but require less after flowering. The bulbs of Cym-bidiums should not be allowed to shrivel. Standing pots on damp gravel on the floor seems to give them the warmth at the top and
coolness below that they find congenial. They prefer water at the roots at all times, but the potting mixture should be well drained and not soggy. Cypripediums have no bulbs and require copious water at the roots. Odontoglossums also require much moisture at the roots, and must be kept cool and shaded.
Evergreen Dendrobiums will require a moderate amount of water at the roots at all times, but the deciduous Dendrobiums must be allowed to dry out thoroughly during dormancy, at which time they resemble dry bamboo canes. They need cooler condi­tions during dormancy. When the new growth is made and the joints of the cane begin to swell, indicating initiation of flower growth, they must be given large amounts of water and moved to a warmer spot.

It will be helpful to the grower to have some method of mark­ing plants after watering so that he will not water them again too soon. Segregating plants of one kind is not very satisfactory, since orchids are individuals and one will dry out sooner than another. Marbles or colored stakes in the pot may answer the purpose. But no mechanical system is infallible and any system must be sup­plemented by close observation. Signs of need for watering are easily distinguishable. The experienced grower 'hefts' or weighs the pot in his hand: if light, watering is indicated. The dry pot leaves no ring on the bench. The appearance of the potting ma­terial is an indication, but not always an accurate one.

The amateur will soon learn to recognize signs of well-being or need in his plants. Jewel-tipped roots and fat, rosy growths are indications of health. Root growth is usually, though not always, apparent, and pots indicating healthy roots can be watered more frequently than those where root growth is doubtful. The latter should be treated to plentiful overhead spray.

This brings us to consideration of the importance of the over­head spray. Orchids appreciate diffused water as they do diffused light. A fine spray makes a hot, dry day bearable for all the plants. A daily spray is routine except for dark, cold days in winter; at the height of summer two or more sprays a day will be gratefully received. Daily light spraying over the potting material is prescribed for tiny seedlings, backbulbs without roots, sick plants, and newly potted plants. Healthy roots attest the value of this treatment. Some growers pot with damp material and allow the newly potted plants to go without pot watering until roots show. Light spray over the top of the potting material supplies enough moisture to prevent shriveling.

Damping is the simplest of the watering operations. Its virtue is enhanced because it is hard to do damage with this method. It consists of watering down the walls, floors, paths, and benches between the pots. In most climates this should be almost a daily procedure, omitted only when the house is too cold or the out­side air too damp. But there is one caution that should be heeded. It is popularly believed that orchids grow in steamy jungles. This is a misapprehension. What takes place in the jungle is rapid evaporation. Steam is injurious to orchids, and when the house is being damped down, care should be taken not to play the water on hot pipes.

Finally, it is imperative that the plants have water with an acidity reading of approximately 4.5 to 5 pH.1 Where the local water supply is very alkaline, some method of putting it on the acid side must be arranged. It is advisable to have the water supply analyzed and a remedy for deficiency suggested by a local chemist. Some growers collect rain for watering, but if this is done they should be sure that the roof has not been sprayed with any injurious paint or stain. Other growers dip watering cans into vats containing water whose pH has been altered by the addition of acid. Hydrochloric acid is most frequently used, but resultant acidity should be checked by some sort of acid meter. It is wisest to consult a chemist about exact methods.

This introduction to the techniques of balance may seem undistilled water is neutral, being neither acid nor alkaline, and has been designated as pH 7 (pH—parts hydrogen), the number seven representing this neutrality. Numbers above 7 denote increasing alkalinity; numbers below 7 in­creasing acidity. Water of 4.5 to 5 has sufficient acid content for orchids. duly complicated, but the amateur should not be discouraged, because these techniques will actually be less involved than they sound in the telling. Constant watchfulness and faithful observa­tion are perennial 'musts/ but they and the details of maintain­ing balance will soon become second nature to the beginning orchidist. The gradual realization of the dream of having the fra­grant glory of the tropics at hand will be the reward.

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